West Coast Wilderness 03 | Milltown to Kūmara | Time Out 2021-22 West Coast

Today's ride is the longest day of the West Coast Wilderness. About 50km and 400m climbing but nothing steep. From Lake Kaniere it's all dedicated cycle trail or hydro service roads, with no traffic, up the Arahura River Valley. A climb takes you over the ridge to follow the Kawhaka River Valley back to Kūmara.

Canoe Cove (Lake Kanere), Milltown to Kūmara

After the night in Hokitika we returned to near Lake Kaniere to start riding.

The first part of the ride is on quiet gravel road.

The road towards Milltown is spectacular, the morning sun and clearing skies made it even more so.

The Arahura River in a tranquil state, the scoured riverbank makes it clear that isn't always the case.

Milltown no longer exists, the road there is still worth the journey.

Back on the off-road cycle trail. A geology and biology lesson in this river scoured bush cross section.

There's a well graded switchback climb from the riverbank up into the bush.

Back into the bush.

The cowboy in Paradise

Texas' on the West Coast, Cowboy Paradise. It used to be a travel stop but the controversial owner had many operators, including Cycle Journeys, remove it from their itinerary. It's a pity as the facilities and location would have made for an interesting overnight.

However, he greeted and chatted to me as passed through, noted I was on an 'ambient bike' and "not a soft #$# like those !@#@'ers on e-bikes". From there it went downhill in a moaning tirade about tour operators and tourists who'd sold him out etc. After escaping that, fortunately after just a couple of minutes, I was glad not to be trapped there overnight!

Macpherson Creek Bridge.

Some of the switchbacks. Just before getting here a couple of guys flew past, heading the other way, on offroad manual wheelchairs making impressive progress. Seeing some of the climbs they'd just completed made their feat even more impressive.

Reading about the Alpine Fault, the shaky history (and future) that shapes this area.

No problem with the weir crossing today. There are alternative 'high water' routes if the rivers make these impassable.

Highest point conquered, it's only about a 310 climb but the ride to Kumara is downhill (on average) from here.

Saw quite a few TA'ers today, about a dozen in all. Spoke to a few at a couple of stops, a mix of first and second wave departures. Tour Aotearoa gives competitors 30 days to ride a prescribed ~3000km route the length of NZ from Cape Reinga to Bluff. It combines New Zealand Cycle Trail Great Rides, Heartland Rides, and quiet back country roads wherever possible.

Lots asked if I was going to ride it over this break but the fixed route, limited time and 'end goal' approach don't really appeal to me. Got the feeling that, although enjoying it overall, several we spoke to were focused on the end rather than really appreciating the journey in a way that appeals to me.

I stopped, a few steps off the trail, on the side of Kawaka Creek and recorded a short Walk the Pod podcast contribution:

Walk the Pod | WtP S25E6 | On Affirmation

Someone has chalked a Ukraine flag on the wall of the railway bridge today and I’m reminded of “To learn something new, take the path that you took yesterday.” - John Burroughs

it showed up in a day or so later, and these are the photos mentioned.

Kawaka Creek Bridge

Waimea Dam remains: The original dated back to 1878 but I suspect it was repaired, rebuilt, more than once.

Kawaka Valley

Waimea Water Race is now used for a small hydro power scheme; Duffers Creek Power Station.

Love the sun dappled tannin tinted water.

Kūmara Reservoir looked a bit low, a dry summer on the wet coast!

A short regenerating bush trail opens out to a boardwalk crossing.

Kapitea Reservoir was even lower, and the cloudless sky indicated that wasn't changing any time soon.

I stopped for, pre-packed, lunch at the Loopline Rd spillway. It was a pleasant view and free from sandflies.

Kūmara & Theatre Royal Hotel

It was mid-afternoon as we rolled into the Kūmara finish.

Home for the night, the wonderfully restored historic Theatre Royal Hotel.

Some were staying in the (modern) Miners Cottages, seen through the window below, but I was in the main hotel. There was a private shared sitting room, lovely bedroom with ensuite bathroom. After cleaning up it was downstairs to the bar, meeting other cyclists and swapping trail stories, then a short walk around the town filled the time until dinner.

Kūmara evening

After dinner (where I demolished a lovely, nicely rare, steak) I went for a short walk as the sun set. The hotel also operate accommodation in the old Bank and several cottages along the main street. I met a late riding TA'er unable to completely escape work as was using the town cellphone reception to sort out some issues on a building project before he cycled into the night and back out of range. He was going to camp somewhere along the trail section we'd just ridden, I was glad to be heading back to a comfy hotel!

It was stunning watching the moon rise over the Theatre Royal Hotel to end the day.

Previous < TO2122 Index > Next