Telefon Bay, Antarctic farewells | Antarctic Mission Log 11
We left Whalers Bay and repositioned to Telefon Bay, further into Port Foster, for the last landing of the trip.
It is another snow-free volcanic gravel beach, also geothermally active with obvious steam rising. That may have helped with one activity planned, an Antarctic polar plunge swim off the beach!
Telefon Bay was covered in poached krill which the Brown Skua loved. They are large birds (~160 cm wingspan, ~2 kg), about 20% larger than the Black-back Gulls seen in New Zealand.
Seems they are not much-admired birds—opportunist scavengers and take penguin chicks (although eat fish too)—but I think they are elegantly menacing. Perhaps, to steal Dr Karl's line about sharks vs dolphins, they just need to hire better public relations consultants.
The other occupants of the bay were blissfully oblivious to our presence; lolling around on some of the remaining ice and happy to be photographed.
Was glad to have my SLR and reasonable zoom lens with me to finally get 'that seal shot', from a safe distance, on the last landing.
Zebra Hills
The hills behind Telefon Bay were patterned with snow clinging to channels eroded in the dark volcanic gravel.
It was a bit of a hike to the top, but the reward of stunning views made it worthwhile. Below Dr Karl had headwear as vibrant as his trademark patterned shirts.
Dr Karl in expedition mode
The dramatic volcanic landscape, thankfully dormant while we were there.
Textures crafted by fire and ice.
Guides were on hand to monitor the hikers.
The Antarctic Polar Plunge
I was still coming down the hill when the brave did their plunge.
I didn't do it; partially because jumping into ice cold sea didn't appeal and thought I had first signs of a cold, didn't think a chill would help, but in the end nothing eventuated of it.
Heard it was pretty cold and the rapid Zodiac transfer back to Ortelius with Siegi's hot chocolate on arrival was appreciated.
Those considerably braver than me; photo by Werner Kruse (Oceanwide Photography Guide).
Last shots!
While they swam, and recovered from it, I wandered along the beach to snap the last few photos. Geothermal steam drifts on the beach made for an interesting atmosphere.
Steam condensation drips off a Skua beak.
Antarctic farewells
Although our journey was far from over this was the last landing of our expedition. Sad, but anticipation of the crossing ahead of us took my mind of thinking about that.
Although sunny, ~0°C plus wind chill meant had to break out all the warm clothing as we left Port Foster. First time I had worn this scarf.
Got a photo with Dr Karl (and Lockie!) as we left Deception Island. He was the main reason I came on this trip; thought it would be a unique experience, but it turned out to be so much more.
The crew make the anchor secure before we head across Drake Passage, the last bit is manual and quite an effort!
Farewell Deception Island, what will Drake Passage bring?
Day 9 – 2nd December 2019 | Deception Island (Polar plunge)
GPS position at 0800: 63°01.6 S 60°30.7 W | Air Temp: 0°C | Wind: NW5 | Sea state: Smooth
Robin Capper
