When I found out about the Waikato River Trail section closure, but had already committed to travel to Taupo, I decided to do a ride previously relegated to my 'next summer' list. I had considered it pre-xmas 2021, but the Auckland COVID-19 lockdown scuttled that.
The Timber Trail goes 85km from Pureora Village (about halfway between Mangakino & Taumarunui) through Pureora Forest to Ongarue (near Taumarunui). It's a two-day forest trail ride with a variety of overnight options mid-way: camping, glamping, and a couple of lodges.
I'm not camping, especially this time of year, so it was glamp or lodge. The glamping looked good but is self-catering and I couldn't be bothered with that so splashed out on a lodge. That came with options to add secure off road car parking, a shuttle to start and luggage transfer so in terms of cycling gear it just becomes a couple of day rides. It is remote and has large sections with no phone reception so a Personal Locator Beacon (can rent or BYO) is a must.
Shuttle Base, Ongarue
The lodge partner with Timber Trail Shuttle and Bike Hire, Ongarue so my day started there. Left the Bravo in their carpark and it was onto the shuttle for the ~50km drive to the trail start (this depot is near the end). The day was OK considering last night's torrential rain. It was overcast but, so far, fine with just the threat of occasional showers.
Although there are three bikes on the trailer when we set out it was just the driver, Tony, and me. Along the way we met a van from the Timber Trail Lodge with a couple from Wellington who'd stayed there already.
Timber Trail Start, Pureora Village
Trail start photo by Tony!
I set off ahead of the couple while they adjusted rental bikes, but they passed me as didn't take a short side trail to a historic feature. I caught and passed them along the trail and didn't see them again until they arrived at the Lodge that afternoon.
I met several other groups on the trail who'd been shuttled by other operators or were doing their own thing. Most were on e-bikes so I'd catch them while they had longer/more breaks, then they'd catch me on the climbs!
The trail start is well signposted, but the 'hole in the bush' entry modestly gives no hint of what lies beyond...
Today's ride is half the 85km trail, no point rushing this ride, too much to see along the way.
This is just after the start...
The first 15km of the ride is a gentle ascent towards the highest point of the track on the side of Mt Pureora.
Logging relics
This Crawler Tractor from the 1940s was left by a local bushman who was recovering tōtara for fenceposts (yes, fenceposts). It's worth the short diversion to see.
Part of the climb is through a cleared regenerating area...
In 1978 conservation activists occupied Pureora Forest to try to stop the felling of native trees. They built platforms in trees, sat on the ground in front of trees and on tracks, and hid under logs. The protest gained media attention and logging was temporarily halted. It stopped for good in 1982.
This film clip (embedded in the Te Ara post) of the protest highlights the tensions between activists and forestry workers and shows some of the tactics used by the conservationists. Protest leader Stephen King speaks near the end of the clip. Pureora Forest protest, 1978 – Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand
It was misty and damp but didn't rain apart from a few passing showers. It was quite warm ~14°C and I stopped to shed my coat and leggings as my long sleeve merino top alone was fine.
The trail was wet but not boggy and lovely riding.
Lovely bush, large and small scale.
At the highest point at (971m) there's a short tramping track to the trig atop Mt Pureora (1,135m) but I didn't do it.
Taupo view?
A trailside sign marked a spectacular Lake Taupo view, not today!
Bog Inn Creek Bridge
A fantastic downhill ride leads to Bog Inn Creek Bridge, the first of eight 'significant' bridges on the trail.
'Significant' is a good description for this 115m span suspension bridge high over the creek and cycling it is an amazing experience. It wasn't windy so I noticed the bridge responding to our mass (just me + bike) as rode across it. The height doesn't concern me, love being on these impressive structures, but it feels odd riding on a surface that is 'alive'.
Building The Timber Trail
This 2013 Dept. of Conservation trail construction documentary shows how these amazing bridges were, literally, strung across the valleys.
Orauwaka Bridge
If you want a repeat experience just keep riding. It's not far to Orauwaka Bridge, but it is a mere 109m long...
Although the overcast remained it was getting brighter.
Stump Hut
This doesn't look like a home, but became one...
The sign tells the tale of brothers and their cousin who shared a small hut here while working the forest. When one brother married, and returned with his wife, the other brother and cousin moved into the stump!
Nicely formed trail and good, given the heavy overnight rain, surface.
Timber Trail Lodge, Piropiro
The end of today's ride is easy to spot: Timber Trail Lodge from the trail at Piropiro:
The Timber Trail Lodge began as an idea in 2013, when plans were being made to create the Timber Trail as part of the New Zealand Cycle Trail. Before then, the Pureora forest was only known to locals, hunters and some hardcore trampers.
The lodge was completed in 2017, a passion project for a group of local outdoor enthusiasts, who had a dream to become recognised as a fine example of sustainable, environmentally sensitive tourism.
Forest Retreat NZ - Timber Trail Accommodation | Timber Trail (timbertraillodge.co.nz)
I'd booked a Lodge package that included shuttle, luggage transfer, accommodation (which includes dinner & breakfast).
Wings both sides of the large communal dining/lounge/deck (below) house 20 rooms, in various configurations, sleeping up to 45 people. I chose an ensuite room, but there's also a cheaper option with shared facilities.
On arrival there's a washstand & hose for the bike (and maybe you!) and covered storage racks for the bikes.
Nice room, the radiator meant it was warm and damp gear, hung above it, is toasty warm and dry next morning. There are also dedicated drying rooms if your stuff gets properly wet, these hosts are familiar with cycling...
My room view, not that I saw much of it. Once cleaned up went along to the lounge (about 3pm) and spent the rest of the afternoon there. You get a tasty thin crust 'welcoming pizza' which, along with a beer, could have done me for dinner!
Because 'New Zealand' met a group, none of whom I knew, who live in West Auckland (near where I grew up) and the Waitakere Ranges (near home). The Wellington couple from the shuttle were there, a woman I passed riding and her husband who didn't ride. He had dropped her at the start, filled the day with his passion, photography, and met her at the lodge.
Some at the lodge were yet to ride, they had taken a two-night option where you stay the night before riding at the lodge itself. Got lots of 'what's it like' questions from them!
Dinner was a per table self-service of roast chicken and vegetables for carnivores. I can't remember the other options, but it was all good. Some nights there is a talk, about the history of the area, but we didn't get that. I was quite early to bed (for me) as it had been a long, brilliant, day.
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