This morning I discovered it isn't wise, due to nosey locals, to leave the deck sliding door open unattended...
Had a slow start, breakfast at about nine on the deck with that view...
After all the recent riding on the mountain bike it was time to do a road ride for a change. Giro Rob was dusted off for the first time on this leg and after being left for a week in the back of the Bravo...
Cycling Punakaiki to Charleston
Today I re-rode, fourth time I think, the Great Coast Road from Punakaiki to Charleston and back. It's a lovely ride and little traffic, due to the reduced tourist numbers, means it's currently even better. Lots of photo stops meant the ~42 km was not quick but there's a few reasonable climbs along the way too.
The day started off a little cloudy but that soon burnt off and the unusually settled fine weather resumed. Noticed some changes straight away, new rock sea wall defences protecting the road and community north of Punakaiki.
This Paparoa River bliss is just the view from the highway bridge, would be exploring this further in the days ahead as the bike trails I plan riding go through here.
Another new development, a Punakaiki shared bike path for a couple of kilometres towards the Truman Track.
This panorama was photobombed, left, by a Kererū (NZ wood pigeon)...
This photo stop, at a lookout, included a chat with three motorcyclists out for a day ride. One had a nice Triumph sport bike, one a trike powered by a VW 1600 Beetle engine, and the other had a Ford V8 trike!
They were interesting to talk too, thought I was mad relying on leg power. If I had a dollar for every time I was asked "Is that an e-bike" I'd have enough money to keep riding my ambient bike forever!
It's not far to the beach from this lookout, but it is but straight down...
Love the colours. There's no filters here, it's just New Zealand.
Pororari River Point, an incredible bit of road.
The clouds to the north were just blowing over, sun and blue skies soon returned.
20 minutes later...
A recommended speed this slow is rare on our state highways, even on a bicycle it signalled bends to be respected.
The road towards Charleston ends with a nice descent. However, only enjoyed with ever-present awareness of what that meant for the return ride!
Charleston
Charleston has a long history, from the 1860s, as a gold mining town. It's small natural bay with a tiny entrance offered some respite from the rugged West Coast and the nearest thing to a harbour. Some of the street names hark back to its harsh history, at one stage the town had 99 hotels!
Even on a nice day, it's hard to imagine coastal trading ships squeezing into Constant Bay.
Headland Trail
I rode/wallked the Headland Trail which is a short loop out to the coast. Chatted with a couple who'd cycle toured from Rotorua, mostly camping, and they were planning to ride down and do the West Coast Wilderness Trail then back over the alps at Arthur's Pass to finish in Christchurch.
I'd love to see this port in its heyday, read they used shorelines to manhandle ships through the channel, but it didn't always end well.
West Coast New Zealand History (16th Oct 2022).
Shipwreck at Charleston 1875. In Website West Coast New Zealand History.
Retrieved 5th Nov 2022 23:00, from westcoast.recollect.co.nz
You can still buy a near beachfront section, only park land in front of you, for "Offers over $275,000".
Lunch!
Had a nice lunch, toasted sandwich & iced coffee, at the newish Underworld Café. Might go back for their gold/cave experience, the main business, when I head north.
Heading home
The return ride, same road as there is only one, was quite a bit quicker but I still took plenty of photos as you see new vistas going the other way. This is the first time I've ridden (or driven) South on this road.
Riding back, I was listening to a multi-decade TV/podcast coincidence...
P'tang: Old TV and new podcasts
I was listening to Rule of Three podcast while riding:
Rule of Three podcast | Joel Morris & Jason Hazeley are among Britain's busiest comedy writers. They have worked with Charlie Brooker, Mitchell & Webb, and just about everybody else...
On Rule of Three they talk to artists about the works that influenced them and the creative process. I only discovered it about a year ago, love it and was catching up with a back-catalogue episode from 2019:
Episode 048: Simon Evans on Jack Rosenthal's P'Tang Yang Kipperbang
I remember seeing P'tang, Yang, Kipperbang in the 80s, one of those TV One Sunday playhouse screenings. Most likely remember it due to the odd name; it was the story of 'Alan Duckworth (John Albasiny), a socially awkward fourteen-year-old who is obsessed with cricket and Ann Lawton (Abigail Cruttenden), a girl in his class.' Was surprised when they mentioned a filming location familiar from more recent media.
On Walk The Pod Rachel often mentions Wimbledon Chase Primary School, as passes on her walks, and (as seen in this screen shot from a trailer on YouTube) it was the P'tang school location!
I recorded a contribution about that which appeared in this WTP:
Walk the Pod | WtP S25E9 | New Blooms
Polly from the mean city streets has been on with some flowers she’s grateful to have spotted on her daily school runs.
I didn't see any penguins; it is more likely around dawn/dusk as they head to/from work!
Fox River, the bike trail doesn't use this bridge, taken from the road one.
I think this more than lives up to its billing.
Late afternoon sun, stopped for a drink and photo as it was hot climbing in the lee of the hill.
Towering cliffs signal you are getting back to Punakaiki.
I got a Magnum ice-cream at the only shop still open at Punakaiki. Sold a 'Take A Look' bike mirror to the owner so it was effectively free! I imported ten as they are not sold in NZ and I'm always being asked about mine. That's what happened while I was in the store. I now carry one spare (at least) and, as I write, only have three left.
Home again, superb bike parking area at this place. I didn't need the firewood for anything other than tarpaulin bike cover weights!
Dinner view towards Punakaiki
Tomorrow I may do some of the Papāroa trail as a day ride, will see what the weather and mood bring. It is about 55km but rated 'Advanced Grade 4' in challenging steep remote country. I have a couple of days to attempt it, either as day rides from each end or a more committed non-stop day ride and shuttle. Much to consider.
Previous < TO2122 Index > Next
