Alexandra and Lake Dunstan Trail | Time Out 2021-22 Alexandra

Whenever I've driven, or been driven, along SH8 between Cromwell and Clyde could not help but gaze at the bits of farm and access trail on the other side of Lake Dunstan (right of photo below) thinking they'd be good to ride. In 2021, after some remarkable engineering, it became possible, no essential, thanks to a new Great Ride: The Lake Dunstan Trail.

Lake Dunstan from SH8 between Cromwell and Clyde

A lovely day in Alexandra!

I rode from Alexandra, taking a river side trail to Clyde before joining the Dunstan trail. Was so glad I had decided not to ride in yesterday's wet weather! The cycling would have been as good, but not the experience.

En-Trance ready for the trail
Stunning Alexandra day after yesterdays rain
The Strava above is one way but rode the same trail back: Strava 78b & Strava 78c Total ~118km, ~1480m elevation, 07:32 riding time.

The Anniversary Track

The Anniversary River Track, or is it the Millennium Track?, runs along the Clutha Mata-au River between Alexandra & Clyde. It's an alternative start to the Otago Rail Trail, NZ's oldest tourist cycle trail and the first 'Great Ride'.


I rode it with Adventure South in 2007 but I didn't take any photos. All I remember was becoming 'one of those clients'. Got to the Alexandra end, went to take a photo, and realised my camera & phone (which were still separate things then!) were still charging in the Clyde Stables I stayed in overnight. Bas kindly went back to get it for me...

The Stables at Olivers
A room in the stable

No problems forgetting things today, I would be cycling back here tonight!

River ride warm-up

Lovely still morning on Clutha Mata-au River at Alexandra.

Clutha Mata-au River

It's a lovely flat, if steadily uphill upstream trail with some interesting gold mining history. You climb ~45 metres over the length of the trail.

The Anniversary River Track
The Anniversary River Track

Clyde

From the trail you cross this bridge and climb up the hill to Clyde. The bridge bike path is quite narrow, my bike has wide bars, and I clipped the side with a bar end near the end. No fall or damage, just embarrassing because, of course, it was witnessed by a walker waiting for me to exit the path...

Clyde Bridge bar scrape
Up the hill to Clyde

Clyde grew up around the former settlement of Dunstan during the Central Otago goldrush of the 1860s. Today its more about tourism, much of it now about supporting cycling which is what drew me here. Got a coffee and admired this Jag F-Type parked in the main street while I drank it.

Coffee and a snack...

Clyde Dam

From the town you cross back to the other side of the river to continue past Clyde Dam to join the new trail. This controversial project was built in the 80's, creating Lake Dunstan, as part of National Prime Minister Rob Muldoon's 'Think Big' energy projects. They were supposed to make NZ more energy independent, after the 1970s energy crisis, but most failed to live up to the promises.

It flooded land occupied by houses, orchards, and the historic precinct of Cromwell which was relocated as part of the project. Controversy increased when it was found, during construction, seismic faults in the area would require considerable redesign and additional works adding 50% to the initial cost.

Clyde Dam
Morning reflections

Clyde, downstream in the shadow of the dam.

Clyde beyond the dam

Lake Dunstan Trail

Once past the dam and rowing club the real Lake Dunstan Trail begins. Wide enough for two-way biking and nicely formed it starts with a lakeside run before climbing.

Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail

The Switchbacks

The trail is far from flat and has some quite challenging twists and turns. It is all nicely graded, and beautifully constructed, but has been catching out novice riders expecting a flat 'rail trail' ride. It's perfectly rideable, especially for e-bikes, but needs to be approached with respect.

Dunstan_Elevation
Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail

The walls on the switchbacks, an example of the stunning rock craft seen along the trail.

Lake Dunstan Trail Switchbacks

First of the cantilevers

As if the scenery isn't enough this trail has several sections cantilevered, from shear rock faces, out over the lake which have become its signature. Abseilers installed mounts into the cliffs, and did lots of overhead rock stabilisation, to connect several trail sections impossible to link other ways.

First of the cantilevers | Lake Dunstan Trail

Looking back, you can see why they are needed.

Cantilevers | Lake Dunstan Trail

Hugo Bridge

Hugo Bridge, 85.5m long and 28.6m high, spans a gap to link into a 4WD trail for the next section of the ride.

Hugo Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Hugo Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Hugo Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail

Meeting the Central Otago Gravelleurs

I found Central Otago Gravelleurs (COGs) on Facebook while planning this trip. They regularly ride gravel road and trail all over Central Otago, with a 'never leave anyone behind and always social with the obligatory coffee and cake' ethos.

The Dunstan Trail seems to be their home ride (understandable!) & saw they were riding today but timing didn't work for my Alexandra start. Besides, I would be mucking around taking photos etc. Told them to keep an eye out for an orange & black bike/rider combo as hoped my Aeroe front bag would be distinctive on the busy trail.

That worked and it was great to meet Chris and have a short chat. They were heading back to Clyde by the time we crossed paths. If you are in the area, check out their Facebook page!

COGS_Rider
Image Credit: COGS Facebook

The Trig!

Next is a climb to the highest point on the trail.

Looking across to SH8 | Lake Dunstan Trail

More switchbacks make this climb less intimidating than it appears.

Climbing to the trig | Lake Dunstan Trail

The trig (Elev. 324m) is a busy rest, regroup, spot but just a bit further down the trail is an even more popular one.

The Trig 324m | Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail

You also get a good look at this remarkable bit of engineering, built for the dam not the cycle trail.

Cairnmuir Slide quake proofing | Lake Dunstan Trail

It stabilises the Cairnmuir Slide, after concerns a quake could dump up to a billion cubic metres of debris into the lake, overwhelming the dam even if it remained intact (as happened at the Vajont Dam, Italy 1962)

Cairnmuir Slide quake proofing | Lake Dunstan Trail

Down Cairnmuir Gully

This descent was fun but had to go slow due to the number of cyclists climbing and tight turns. The trail was busy, it was Sunday and suspect (like me) many had held off with the wet weather yesterday.

It was apparent lots were novice riders, or not used to e-bike (majority) power on gravel as soon learned some had little idea about keeping left...


I later read it was hoped the trail would attract 7,500 users in its first year, based on Otago Central Rail Trail’s 10,000/year, but had 84,000 riders in the first twelve months.

Lake Dunstan Trail lauded with more than 80k riders in first year | May 23, 2022 | Best in NZ
Cairnmuir Gully Descent | Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail
Cairnmuir Gully | Lake Dunstan Trail

Cyclists climbing Cairnmuir Gully.

Cairnmuir Gully | Lake Dunstan Trail

Coffee Afloat

Another must do on this trail is coffee, in the middle of nowhere! Coffee afloat is a brilliant solution to a trail full of cyclists and no facilities to make coffee. Ideally placed before/after the big climb these boats serve great coffee, burgers, bacon sandwiches, ice cream and more. The 'parking lot' shows how popular it is and how busy the trail was.

Coffee Afloat bike parking | Lake Dunstan Trail
Coffee Afloat | Lake Dunstan Trail
Coffee (and Burgers!) Afloat | Lake Dunstan Trail
Coffee Afloat crowds | Lake Dunstan Trail

Cantilever care

The photo below left shows two aspects of cantilever care. First, I was so impressed with the quality of work, planks scribed to fit rough rock faces. Second, the blind corners that (I heard) have caught a few out. At one point I saw a group of six riders approaching so stopped before a blind corner to wait for them to pass. In the time that took another faster rider, unsighted, had caught up and came barrelling around the corner too. I had to swerve aside to avoid them. It wasn't dangerous but can imagine it could be.

Cantilever craftsmanship | Lake Dunstan Trail
Cantilevers | Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail

Not just cyclists enjoying the day, saw jet ski and boats on the lake.

Watersports | Lake Dunstan Trail

View towards Cornish Point, end of the gorge section but not of the trail.

Towards Cornish Point | Lake Dunstan Trail

Cornish Point

The Cornish Point deception is real. Here you are both ~300m and ~12km from Cromwell as the trail loops up to Bannockburn.

Cornish Point | Lake Dunstan Trail
Cornish Point | Lake Dunstan Trail
Dunstan_Cornish_Pt

The Bannockburn diversion

The trail goes up to Bannockburn for the road bridge crossing the Kawarau River.

Towards Bannockburn | Lake Dunstan Trail

Either the Kawarau River is shallow, or I saw, standing in the middle, Jesus?

Jesus | Lake Dunstan Trail

Carrick Winery is a popular stop on the trail, so popular pays to book on weekends.

Carrick Winery Bannockburn | Lake Dunstan Trail

More impressive trail infrastructure.

Carrick Winery Bannockburn | Lake Dunstan Trail

Bannockburn Bridge has a nice wide cycle path attached to the side. Something Auckland's Harbour Bridge is yet to match...

Bannockburn Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Bannockburn Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Bannockburn Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Towards Cromwell | Lake Dunstan Trail

Cromwell Heritage Precinct

The trail carries on another 16km past the Cromwell Heritage Precinct, but I turned around here. It was mid-afternoon, nearly three, and I was glad to see the food places still serving. Had been caught out before by early closing due to COVID before.

Cromwell Heritage Precinct | Lake Dunstan Trail

First time I've visited an office for months! The Office Bar was a wonderful place to refuel: their Pulled Pork Burger, Fries and a crisp cold Cider hit the spot in the shade of a courtyard table umbrella with a lake view.

Cromwell Heritage Precinct | Lake Dunstan Trail
Bike fuel | Cromwell Heritage Precinct | Lake Dunstan Trail
Cromwell Heritage Precinct | Lake Dunstan Trail

Heading home: the same, but different

One thing I've learnt on this trip, riding a trail in two directions is like riding two trails. When planning the hub/spoke mode of travel I knew it would mean a lot of two-way riding. What I didn't predict is how much I prefer riding a trail both ways, you see so many different things, time of day, lighting, and on this trail, activity.

The busy trail I rode up on was all but deserted for the return ride. In ~41km I saw two other riders!

Back to Bannockburn | Lake Dunstan Trail
Towards Bannockburn Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Lake Dunstan Trail
Towards Cornish Point | Lake Dunstan Trail
Back on Lake Dunstan

A closer look at the cantilevers and how they were built.

Cantilevers | Lake Dunstan Trail
Cantilevers | Lake Dunstan Trail
How it was all built | Lake Dunstan Trail

Reprising the ride, but new views.

Lake Dunstan Trail
Switchbacks ahead | Lake Dunstan Trail

Back to the valley climb, no traffic this time

Switchbacks ahead | Lake Dunstan Trail
Evening Switchbacks | Lake Dunstan Trail

Evening sun on Lake Dunstan.

Looking back | Lake Dunstan Trail
Looking back | Lake Dunstan Trail

Nobody at the trig this time.

Nobody at the Trig | Lake Dunstan Trail
Empty | Lake Dunstan Trail

An empty Hugo Bridge.

Empty Hugo Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail

Little did I know this (left) is a close-up of a future problem...

Maxxis on Hugo Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail
Shadows from Hugo Bridge | Lake Dunstan Trail

More of the impressive rock work along the trail.

Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail
Stone Art | Lake Dunstan Trail
Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail
Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail
Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail
Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail

Traffic, on the lake.

Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail
Evening | Lake Dunstan Trail

My phone died soon after this*, I took the river trail back to Alexandra. A great finish to the perfect day.

* I'd forgotten to put in airplane mode, and it spent half the day trying to connect in no signal areas



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